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Messages - QHYceced

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Which one is the latest QHY294PROC 'windows' driver?

I have and now I have installed latest QHYCCD.dll - the one that features 47Mb RGB24 colour, it is NOT detected any more by Sharpcap!

Detected by Windows thou [].

I am 'just asking' as it might just be THAT the problem.

What a nightmare ...

If there is not one problem, then there is another one coming out!


1. using SharpCap 3.2.6482 [64bit] stable - no detection - yes I have put latest QHYCCD.dll within its ROOT
2. using SharpCap 4 beta [32bit] - it is detected + RGB24 at 47Mp works [4fps], but beta has its problems ...
3. using SharpCap 3.2.6482 [32bit] works fine RGB24 too - I remember Robin stating - if you get problems with 64bit, stick with 32bit = true!


Image Issue Q&A / Re: QHY294C Grid pattern on the image
« on: April 25, 2021, 06:20:57 AM »
    Yes,just like you said,and why I said don't select RAW16 adn RAW8,it is because this function is exclusive,SharpCap can't convert MONO image to color presently.
    And it can use for planetary video,I tested it with SharpCap.
Best Regards,

Nice to know!

Thanks for the efforts.

QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 25, 2021, 05:13:46 AM »
I had at least 4 times this - with Beta or Stable SharpCap versions:

1. it shut down while it was taking dark
2. it shut down while it was taking lights - after the first hour I went to check and it shot down - restarted another 1h session
3. I then last time it shut down re-run the stable one and camera was not detected 'by SharpCap ' - although it was detected by PC
Started/restarted SharpCap - connected/disconnected each section of camera cables and then SharpCap found it, but upon selecting it, there was [in my view] no handshaking between camera and there was nothing on SharpCap screen!

4. started Beta 4.** version and it finally went back to normal!

Robin of SharpCap  says it is to do with Camera information sent or not to SharpCap and I really tend to believe him.

This also mean, QHY294c or PROC software/firmware still has problems, never mind the 47M we are still waiting for.

I was starting to have almost all working fine now and this started to bother us - wasted 1 hour the other night, that could have been taking lights!

It seems there is always a blooming problem and for me is very hard to keep doing Astro-imaging having weather unstable, little time, narrow view of the sky and all I need is software stable!

It seems impossible in 2021, not just QHY - anything really and Microsoft WIN10 has become a sewer too and I am probably going to switch to Ubuntu, when I can do full cloning of HDD and then install Ubuntu.

I am just trying to get a decent 'working' setup that I can use happily for when I retire in some years.

Is QHY software/firmware stable now? Are we going to get the 47M ? UPDATED
I saw other thread mentioning the latest QHYCCD.dll and I confirm it works with 47M only on RGB24 - if I find the time I will try it on The Moon maybe

... just telling the happenings !


Hi Mauro,

glad to hear that your flats improved with decreased brightness.

Although that might be 'also' due to my CLS-CCD, I might have to add another filter to stop UV or IR?

You definetly have to use at least an UV/IR cut filter because the 294c only has AR coating on the sensor window.
It's written in the specs:

For color camera user need to add a UV/IR filter in the light path

As far as I know this might be adding to your problem of bloated stars.

best regards

Correct - thanks for reminding me, I will check 'now' and I believe I do have an extra 2" UV/IR to add although we know the more glass in front the more problem might come out - it might be over my Canon 100D !

I do also keep a huge black blanket to screen me from neighbour's light, which I have now raised it on one side to avoid any shine from my garage side fascia ... painted brilliant white!!

Got some grey undercoat + black matt paint, I might paint it when it is hotter = end of shine!


QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 08, 2021, 05:15:43 AM »
Looks good. QHY SDK and driver are working well.


Yes, learning a bit, I thought it was OK ... and I just remembered, I seemed to have had problems with Sharpcap latest stable version, suddenly the other night - had problem getting signal from camera, then connected using Ezcap and it was fine. So, I guess it was a Sharpcap problem.

I then tried the Beta I had installed and updated it to latest 4.0.7596.0 (23/03/2021) ... BUT ... I installed the 32bit version, now qhy294 works without manually replacing QHYCCD.dll.
I managed to do test flats as well and the Sensor Analysis too was with the nightly - will use this one next time and if it works fine, I will not update it.

Let's see what happens next time I am outside!

I have been in Lockdown3 since after Christmas going back to work on Monday ... finally ... I need a distraction = work and my hobbies!


Image Issue Q&A / Re: QHY 294M PRo Connection Problems
« on: April 07, 2021, 07:06:14 AM »
I have recently had a problem with my QHY 294M in which when I try to take an image in The SkyX or Maxim DL upon  download the program will immediately crash and I will have to unplug the USB cable to have it recognized in Device Manager again.  I am using the latest drivers.  The problem occurs both with the Ascom driver and the native driver.  Perhaps someone can remote into my machine and diagnose the problem.

Thank you,
Ron Stanley

How long is the cable?


Yes, my LED A3 panel is dimmable.

At lowest and without shirt - just using it own white cover I get a mainly RED wave and can do Flat at ~ 400-500ms, but I guess I might have to raise brightness to get more colours out and use shirt [I already gathered - I got larger!] to diffuse it.

I might have solved all my problems at once, this time.

May the Gods of Astronomy help me next time to finally find my 'way'.

I also guess I will have to set my 294PROC gain to less than 1601 I had, as telescope + flattener stops at 5.2 now and I have read QHYCCD page saying to reduce - they are correct, in fact I get Panda eyes - i.e. main stars a bit bloated and with violet/blue halo. Although that might be 'also' due to my CLS-CCD, I might have to add another filter to stop UV or IR? Unless I can afford to get a L-enhance /Tri-band or similar - not a quad-band, it is for clearer areas. I am Bortle 5, maybe 4.5 now with slightly reduced street lights glow.

But this is another matter, not for this thread.


Hi Bernd
Thanks for the info.

I agree with you - last night I did put 2 layers of white plastic wrapping [did not have shirt at hand that time] and that is also slightly shiny !!!
Yes, I thought exactly the same about the brightness, I need to check if it is dimmable - I hope so or I will have to modify it somewhat.

This morning I focused my SW72ED towards a neighbour house and slightly forward focused [I now it is almots same as focusing a star - I tried it already and a bit off focus does not change much as Sharpcap's Robin says.

This time I got a very good flat when applied with greyish screen and all peaks overlapping on a nice sinusoid - I guess, as one would expect and was VERY clean.

I will have to get an old white tee-shirt to make image well diffused with shine and reduce light somewhat.

If I can do it electronically, I will .

Late will check if it is dimmable, I have not used it in 2 years - I forgot things + I am getting older!

yes, I have seen people stating something like 0.5s to 5s - depending on light and mine YES it is HUGE - in fact I told my wife last night, it is stronger than our outdoor light!

On a similar matter I re-did Sensor Analysis and this time I got it right, so the Brain function in Sharpcap should work better now, if not perfect - judging by the data I am starting to understand.



QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 07, 2021, 06:24:48 AM »
Last night was hell .... not talking about that now.

Anyway, I re-did Sensor Analysis today and found 'my way' of doing it properly.

I believe 'now' it is as one would expect it to be and I also barely remember last night while using SharpCap 'brain' button, it did tell me 1750 and minimum of 87s exposures and now looking at latest Analysis, I believe SharpCap is correct ... I am learning ...

QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 06, 2021, 06:18:05 AM »
Here is the new thread:

QHY294c and QHY294PROC - doing FLATS - it seems I cannot do them well = HELP!

This thread is from other one: https://www.qhyccd.com/bbs/index.php?topic=8408.90, as I was crowding it with problems that have nothing to do with other thread - sorry - I let myself go!

Can anyone help in taking FLATS using SharpCap and QHY294PROC ?

I have not certain idea and my situation is, I have mostly bad weather and time limited and every time I can match 'free time' / 'decent weather' / 'nobody bothering me!' I get to solve problems rather than do any decent shots!

Very frustrating and I also am sited within a small gap of sky in a back yard!

Any help would do.

I am guessing  - based on what I have read, you generally have to set SharpCap to same Gain [maybe]/ focus [obviously] as the Lights, then change Exposure [usually 2-5ms if I am not wrong] and keep Histogram at around 50% white wave peak?
I cannot do it and it seems extraction of flat while on DSS or similar program does not actually do much!

i.e. SharpCap states:
An ideal flat frame histogram would have a peak at about the 50-60% level and have all the histogram between the 20% and 80% levels. This is shown below for monochrome and colour cameras

I will try again tonight, but if anybody can give us some useful practical tips ASAP, I will try tonight and also do them after focusing and before taking lights.

Thank you in advance to any one.


PS in a few years I will retire and i am slowly trying to built a few setups and then when all works, sell whatever I do not need. Trying to do things as simple as possible ans since here in North East England UK is generally cold and have very few good nights and one need to get to use as many as possible.
I have slowly managed to setup Computer/controls form inside - not far from tripod and used old EQ6 motors to adapt them to 2 telescopes with SW old control - I do gross focusing by hand - unless telescope is already set and then attach belt and fine tune focusing indoor.

QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 06, 2021, 05:59:36 AM »

Very nice astropic.

-My stock QHY294C camera has a heater element for the camera objective glass. I have not seen any fogging. I don't think you need the heater band as shown in your picture. I have to believe that the factory QHY294CPRO also has an objective glass heater.

Yes, I guess it is internal, bear in mind mine is a 294c but upgraded as 294PROC = same camera - it seems this camera has its internal own dew control...

-Offset=29 I use an OFFSET of zero for all GAINs. I would like it if QHY allowed OFFSET to be negative. Using a positive value is OK but it takes away from dynamic range. You need to look at BIAS frames with different values for OFFSET and decide what is the smallest value to use with minimal clipping at zero. That's how I decided on an OFFSET of zero. Dark Current and Light Pollution will push up the average pixel values so clipping at zero is not a concern for me.  I have a very dark site that I image at and I always use an OFFSET of zero.

I can certainly try it, I am Bortle 4.5 I believe, although since street lights became LED, it actually is better because they are lower height and pointing down and in my view I might even be 5.5 now - neighbours might be more of a problem than street lights, as their light shines on our yard and I guess there also are some reflection form the garage top fascia - brilliant white! - I do use a very large black blanket over washing line and pushed up with at line pole to about 2.5-3m - it does help. Personally initially I thught to give it 10 Offset, but I have read many using 15 up to 30, so I pushed it up, but I understand situations are different - will try 10 tonight - it seems going to be better than yesterday

Take a look at my photos www.astrohobby.ca
I had a quick look yesterday and will be back to try and learn - I feel thick on this field!

GAIN=1601  This is fine. The camera actually switches to HGC mode at GAIN=1600...I've proven this. Once you get comfortable with the camera you can experiment with other gains[advanced topic].

-I don't know where you live but if the weather is cold then the cooler will be barely working. The power supply will be cold. Don't expect the same if you use the camera inside your house. At -15C it will be working hard.
More on this later...

North East England UK - we are having another ~7 days Cold Snap N-NW

-DARKs at the same temperature/GAIN/OFFSET/EXPOSURE as your LIGHT frames are vital for the QHY294 cameras.  Dark current is significant with this camera.

-I struggle with FLATs also. Can you put a sample FLAT on dropbox and also let me know how you took the FLAT? If you take FLATs and DARKFLATs using the same conditions then it does not matter at what GAIN or COOLING you used.

I only done it once but after Lights and I am not sure of settings - I guess I will only take Darks and Flats, no other - I am trying to make my life easier ;p], I might have left it at 1601 Gain [possibly 1-2ms] and adjusted to be 'visually' dark grey, I am really not good with Flats, this time I will do it first, so I can apply it with Darks and see what happens, I guess another evening wasted testing.

I have read someone stating this:

Flats - x50 @ 4.75s target ADU of 22000 using an LED light panel and white t-shirt

I do not know how to target 22000 ADU within SharpCap, I guess they use a program that allows you to do that.

I will try to also use this, if I do not forget: https://www.sharpcap.co.uk/sharpcap/features/smart-histogram

I have a B4 light panel that I just started using. To soon to tell if it is better. My light panel seems to be pure white. The histograms look like white light with no strong blue hue.

-Panda Eyes...that's the first time I heard that description. Can you get me a link to a website that has good information on panda eyes?
That is simply when you get the Blue-Violet halo around stars, a problem with non-apo and / or when the CLD-CCD filter is not good or a visual one is used... if I remember well

As for your sensor analysis images. The first one is rubbish. That must have been when the SDK and driver were messed up.
The first one is the one I did publish earlier on this sane thread and it is similar to one you published too up to 1500 Gain - they are the same then mine goes differently ... mmm

The second one is not much better. It does show the read noise dropping as the camera switched from LGC to HGC. The e/ADU, Read Noise(e), Full Well(e), Relative Gain, Rel Gain(db) values are rubbish. Only the Gain Value and the Dynamic Range (Stops) values are useful.

Also...The cooler target was set to -15 and the temp feedback was -13.6.  The cooler was operating at 100%!!!
This time  #Power was inadvertently set = Auto - I switched that off and let cooler at 151 power and it now stays at 59% maintaining -15?C
You must avoid running the cooler continuously at 100% power. It significantly decreases the operating life of the cooler. This is important to remember when you are taking DARKs inside the house. Try to put the camera in a cool environment if your are going to be taking -15C DARKs...otherwise you will shorten the life of the cooler and the camera temperature may not be constant because the cooler is running hard. You want constant temperatures for all of your imaging...including DARKs.

The power supply actually was not the same I use, although both 12v 5A, I believe this PSU is rubbish and not really 5A - should have used other one which normally does not ever reach 100%.
I have now set telescope outside - as I did play with my DIY Solar Scope a bit and now setup AR152 + 294proc with usual good PSU and set it to -15. I will re-do sensor analysis and also do Darks 30s 45s 60s - this camera I am guessing works better on 30-45s

P.S. If you want to discuss FLATs for the QHY294C can you start another topic in a section not specific to SDK and driver issues.  A lot of what it already here is not easy for anyone else to find.

You are right, I apologise ...

QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 05, 2021, 09:57:01 AM »
... and just to add to the fire ... !

I just remembered I needed to re-do Sensor Analysis as when I did ... I think I did it when it was still a QHY294c, not is a QHY294PROC.

See previous first and latest one:

Does this mean Unity Gain as changed?

I see old one as expected to 1500-1600 and new analysis to 2500.

I am confised.

Bear in mind Analysis went well straight away within 5-10 minutes - last time I got frustrated it worked on after many tries, but if I am not wrong it was to do with QHY software ...

If I can I will try either tonight or tomorrow night - it seems it clears but 'windy' ... mmm

    qhyccd1.dll is for QHYCCD-Cameras-Captures,qhyccd2.dll is for QHYCCD-Cameras2-Captures.
    And about SDK location,it indeed be setup different location,and some software also will contain SDK,this will make confuse.Thanks for your feedback,I will fix it.
Best Regards,


QHYCCD SDK FOR WINDOWS / Re: ONE page for drivers etc.
« on: April 05, 2021, 04:18:36 AM »
You are certainly learning lots about digital cameras.  A few concepts to understand.
1)The Whitebalance values should be set to the default (16) for all of your work.  [The only exception is when you are displaying a live video and you wish to have the colors "look nice". For this exception you will want to have the red whitebalance set to 32, the green whitebalance set to 16 and the blue whitebalance set to 24.]
2)All of the programs you are going to use to digitally develop your astrophotos will prefer that the whitebalance values be equal. This is both for the pixel values and for the noise content in the image [advanced topic for later]
3)This equal whitebalance philosophy is built into virtually all cameras and it can be a real "can of worms" if you mess with it.


Thanks Peter for taking the time to give me this clear information and yes, I just gathered info lately and slowly understood the White-balance philosophy and the 'keeping' RGB same level.
Got that now.

2 days ago I managed to get the AR152/988mm out and fit the 294PROC through a Orion 0.8x and a standard CLS-ccd 2" filter and done 3x 20 Sharpcap Stacks of 60s  - total 60 minute.

Camera Data:

Debayer Preview=On
Output Format=FITS files (*.fits)
Capture Area=4164x2822
Colour Space=RAW16
Read Mode=11M MODE
Force Still Mode=Off
Enable Live Broadcast=Off
Use DDR Buffer=On
USB Traffic=0
Offset=29 ... CORRECT ?
Amp Noise Reduction=On
Frame Rate Limit=Maximum
Gain=1601 ... CORRECT ?
Timestamp Frames=Off
White Bal (B)=16
White Bal (G)=16
White Bal (R)=16
Temperature=-15.1 - TIP to all of you - Use a 5A PSU for this camera, that way temperature will be super stable as PSU is only working up to 60% of its capacity - almost cold!

I also did 10x Darks and applied them and seem to have cleared image decently, I did FLATS after and badly - should have done them earlier and well then applied with darks - learned lesson, I actually forgot about it.

That is my main problem now, I seem I cannot do proper FLAT with any Cmos camera with the exception of my old DSLR, thanks to BYOS setting it automatically did very good flats!

In fact during the years I almost always got better result using DSLR than the Cmos!

I also wrapped a 70cm dew heater all around the 0.8 (from camera to focuser] + another 70cm wrapped around the AR152 lens.

In short and concise my problems still are:

FLATS = are rubbish - any practical tips? - I do have a A3 LED panel and use that now for uniformity, I also leave its white cover to smooth the light and yes I know they generally are blueish lights.
(I end up creating flat from Lights to reduce 'steaming' middle usual fog!)

I have been reading about flats, but it still is not too clear to me - I am an idiot with 125 IQ - incredible how 90 IQ I can be some time!  :P

Does the 294PROC need its own heater on the front - to keep CMOS glass clear?
Mine 'was' a NON-Pro version upgraded, I assume it does not have internal heater?

Here are Dew Heater wrapping and an image of the Leo Triplet - 3x 20m of 60s each = total 60m

Take into account, I did not do a extremely good focus just yet, but I managed to get an 'Excellent'  Polar Alignment and managed 60s with no guiding - although I guess 45s would have been better!

using a refractor! Although not much of it - only on very bright stars, maybe my CLS-CCD is NOT really a CCD?

NEXT: I will get back in using PHD2 if needed.

Thanks for the help

PS this thread will be of good use for many at my level.

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